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Right off the bat, let me be honest: I rarely ever wear lipstick. The most make up I wear is restricted to the eyes, but I am a fan.

Lipstick goes back a long way. Mesipotamian women supposedly crushed precious jewels to decorate their lips. Huh, kinda makes Ke$ha seem like less of an asshole.

(Nope. Still an asshole.)

Ancient Egyptians extracted a purple dye from fucus-algin, iodine, and bromine mannite. As you might have already figured out, that wasn't exactly FDA approved. Cleopatra's method involved crushing carmine beetles and ants for a base. On a side note: does anyone else feel weird writing "beetle" instead of "Beatle"? Anyway. But my favorite has to be the use of fish scales to achieve that pearlescenct effect.
It was the Arab Andalusian cosmetologist Abu al-Qasim al-Zahrawi that invented solid lipsticks, as we know them today. It took awhile, but Medieval Europe managed to bring the party down by banning lipstick, since it was an "incarnation of Satan." It was strictly reserved for prostitutes.
Lipstick gained some popularity in 16th century England when Queen Elizabeth I made bright red lips and a stark white face fashionable.

(I do love those redheads)

But that didn't last very long; only wealthy women and actors wore lipstick and by the late 1700's Parliament moved to have marriages annulled if the bride wore any cosmetics before her wedding day. It was Queen Victoria that put the final kibosh on everything - once again, it was only acceptable for prostitutes to wear make up, specifically lipstick. As dumb as all this sounds, keep in mind how dangerous make up was at the time, often loaded with lead and vermilion. So, you know, there's that.
Anyway, the French figured out how to make a cosmetic that wouldn't maim and kill you and make it available to the masses.

Even as late as the 19th century lipstick was still considered inapropriate for day-to-day wear and was found mostly among prostitutes and stage performers. Sarah Berhardt wore it frequently in public, even applying it in public.

(Sarah Bernhardt)

1915 saw the invention of the swivel lipstick tube that we use today; this made the makeup very easy to use, since it didn't require a lipstick brush, which made the product much more popular. The rest is fun and games!

1920's
Once the Roaring 20's rolled around, Flappers locked onto lipstick (and other make up). They wore it as a symbol of independence, paving the way for the masses. Usually in dark reds and worn in the popular "Cupid's Bow."


1930's
Lipstick was still considered an adult product at this time. Women wore it as an expression of their sexuality and to emulate the glamorous actresses on the silver screen. Elizabeth Arden began exploring more colors, though reds were still very popular. The "Cupid's Bow" was still en vogue but fuller and with flares in the corner - similar to Joan Crawford.


1940's
By now lipstick was widely accepted in society, though it would become somewhat scarce during WWII. Teenage girls started wearing lipstick, though they were heavily discouraged. These two factors combined, created the idealized "natural look." Lipstick was painted on to match the natural lip shape (though the top lip was still a little fuller than normal). Two kinds of colors were popular: the first was a "monotone" that supported the natural look and the other was a "contrast" which accented the face.


1950's
The natural look remained popular into the mid-century. Pastel, or simply light colored lips, came into day-to-day wear, while red remained a night time staple. Women still looked to actresses for style tips and those actresses were glamor goddesses, like Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor.
 

1960's
Interestingly, the Civil Rights movement helped broadened the make up landscape. With more black artists working in mainstream entertainment, make up needed to be created to accommodate them. The Pop Art movement also introduced more elaborate and exciting shades. Many black female singers would wear white or very light lipstick (and eyeshadow), and soon, white girls were following suit.
What many people associate with the 1960's from shows like Mad Men is really much closer to make up from the 1950's. "Mod" make up was something teenagers wore; "older" women, like Joan and Peggy, still wore traditional make up.
The natural look continued to stay popular, especially when the Hippie movement began later in the decade.
Ironically, make up (lipstick in particular) had become so popular and a part of everyday life, that, if a girl didn't wear any of it, she was considered a lesbian or even mentally ill.
 
(every day look and bold Pop Art look)

1970's
More and more color was introduced during the disco era, emphasizing the decadence of the time. Though day-to-day wear remained subdued, Woman's Lib gave women the freedom to wear make up however they pleased. In some cases, that meant none at all.
 
(everyday look and night life Disco look)

1980's
Similar to the 1960's, makeup focused almost entirely on the eyes. Later in the decade attention was paid to the mouth. Full, glossy lips in bold, bright colors became popular. On the alternative scene was black lipstick, popular in the Goth and Punk world.
  

1990's
Once Nirvana put the nail in the glam rock coffin, glam make up followed suit. "Heroin Chic" or the grunge look became hugely popular, even making it's way to the runways of Paris and New York. Red and metallic colors were popular shades for the mouth.


There are so many option when it comes to make up and it all starts with what look you want to go with. Emulating a specific decade can be fun, so take a little time and look into a style that you think suits you. Try it for a night out and then slowly work it into your day-to-day wear. If you're not sure how to go about putting together a look, try some video tutorials. And if you want someone to walk you through, in person, check out your local beauty schools or community colleges. They often have salons in those departments and the students and teachers will show you whatever you like. Enjoy!
                                                                                                                                                                            

                                     

Des Petites Choses Qui Restent

 I wanted to pop in just to let you know that I haven't gone anywhere. Last week I started a new job and I'm getting used to the new hours. It's hard to find time to get in some quality time at the gym, as well as sit down to write - and that's why it was a little quiet around here last week. I've put together a schedule that will hopefully get me moving. So far, so good! I've accomplished both today.

But, because of this new schedule, I'm going to have to keep my posting to approximately two articles a week. Maybe more, but rarely ever less. Hopefully I can give you a head's up on Sunday's as to what's coming during the week.

This week introduces a new theme: Mad Men Drink of the Week. This replaces "Ricky the Bartender's" Drink of the Week. Sadly, for the time being, Mr. Bartender will not be contributing to this blog. Every week I will discuss a cocktail that was popular during the time of Mad Men or was even imbibed on the show.

Look for an article on Lipstick and Bloody Mary's. I suppose it's kind of a lady's week!

In the mean time, your homework is to watch "The Kennedys" on Reelz Channel. It is fantastic!

 

Fashion - Watches

It's time to talk about accessories. I am so sorry.

This week we take a look at watches. Mostly because no one is looking at them much anymore. I like watches, especially pocket watches, but rarely ever wear them. They can be a lovely and useful accessory, a last minute touch, that little ... thing that brightens up an outfit. And it's unisex.


Simply put : a watch is a small portable, timepiece. It is typically worn strapped to the wrist but can be held in the pocket, attached by a chain. You are probably familiar with the terms "wrist watch" and "pocket watch." At it's most basic feature, watches track and display the passage of time but there are a wide range that are capable of showing calendar days, days of the week, etc.

The wrist watch first appeared in the 1900's and was called a "wristlet." They were worn by women and were considered a passing fad. Gentlemen, who wore pocket watches, were quoted as saying "I'd sooner wear a skirt as wear a wrist watch." Well, that could be arranged. This, however, changed in World War I when soldiers found that a pocket watch was highly impractical on the battle field - that's putting mildly. They attached the watch to their wrists with a leather strap. It is also possible that the German Imperial Navy had been following this practice as early as the 1880's, but, whatever, they were the bad guys.


But it took some time for wrist watches to gain popularity in fashion; by the 1950's, men and women alike were wearing them on a day-to-day basis. And beyond that, mechanics and science found a new frontier.
The first watches were mechanical but, over time, the mechanics were replaced, in some cases, by quartz vibrations. Designer watches are often manufactured with springs, which are similar to the old mechanical watches, even though they are less accurate. Basically, they look great but don't run as well as the less expensive quartz watches. Consider this when you are shopping for a watch because it could be a deciding factor in the purchase.


Consider the watch the next time you are looking to accesorize or when you are shopping for something personal. Just remember to look for a watch that will be functional as well as decorative, so you get your money's worth!

Fashion - Men's Attire

Guys. You have it so good. Women's fashion is in constant flux - which is probably why we are always a little insane. But men's fashion is constant, reliable and adaptable. You have fundamentals that can be accessorized easily. What you need to know is minimal. It just takes a little practice.

Suit Etiquette
Let's cap this adventure off with a quick lesson on how to wear all the garments we've covered. It's no good to have the ingredients if you can't bake the cake.

Buttoning the suit jacket:
Double-breasted: it is acceptable for this jacket to remain buttoned throughout the day.

Single-breasted: because of the cut and draping, it's more comfortable (and looks better) to keep the jacket buttoned when standing and unbuttoned when seated.

If you are wearing a coat that has two or more buttons, the bottom button is usually left undone. A double-breasted coat is the exception. But if you are unsure, a good rule of thumb is to keep the bottom undone.

And there you have it! Now! Go forth and prosper in your fine suits. I'll be waiting for you at the bar; you can buy me a drink - I like gin and tonics.

Fashion - Men's Attire

Guys. You have it so good. Women's fashion is in constant flux - which is probably why we are always a little insane. But men's fashion is constant, reliable and adaptable. You have fundamentals that can be accessorized easily. What you need to know is minimal. It just takes a little practice.

Dress Shirts


These are the most commonly worn shirts with suits.

There are a few variations on the shirt collar that you should be aware of:

Spread or Windsor

This the most formal and looks very sharp with tuxedo/shawl collar jackets.

Point 

Point collars are very common in day-to-day wear and always look professional.

Button-down 

I'm not the biggest fan of button-down collars. They looks a little too ... "cheap." I hate saying that but it's what I think! Still, a collared shirt is better than a not-collared shirt.

Every shirt has cuffs and the three main types are:

Barrel 

Fastened by one or two buttons, according to taste, the barrel cuff is another member of the day-to-day family.

Double or French 

These are much more formal and are usually worn when attending special events. If you have a wedding or funeral or even a special meeting (i.e, job interview, asking for a raise), these are ideal. There's a little extra length to the cuff so they can be folded back and fastened with a cuff link.

Single 

Usually worn with formal evening wear, the single is not common day-to-day wear. It would look a little fussy if you showed up to the office wearing something like this. These are best reserved for a black tie or even white tie affair - such as a formal wedding or the Oscars. It's basically a French cuff without the fold.

Please remember to always iron your dress shirts. All dry cleaners will press your shirts and trousers if you ask them. When wearing a dress shirt, always tuck the hem into your trousers. If a tie is involved (as there should always be) make sure the top button of your collar is buttoned - it looks sloppy if you are also wearing a tie and the button is undone.

Last entry in Men's Week: Suit Etiquette!

Fashion - Men's Attire

Guys. You have it so good. Women's fashion is in constant flux - which is probably why we are always a little insane. But men's fashion is constant, reliable and adaptable. You have fundamentals that can be accessorized easily. What you need to know is minimal. It just takes a little practice.

Neckties

(neckties from the 1940's, 1950's and 1960's)

(neckties from the 1970's, 1980's, 1990's and 2000's)

These are normally worn as part of regular office wear and formal wear. However, they can be worn as everyday attire. Like practically everything in fashion, styles have varied throughout the years. These days ties are slender with a ride range of colors and designs. There are also clip on ties but they should only be worn by children.


( ... ladies? )

Color:
Ties should always be darker than the dress shirt. The background color of the tie should not match the shirt. The foreground or pattern of the tie may contain the color of the shirt. Simple or subdued patterns are preferred.



Knot:
The most common are Four-in-Hand, Half-Windsor, Windsor (or Full-Windsor) and the Shelby or Pratt. Once properly done, the bottom of the tie can extend from the naval level to slightly below the waistband. The thin end should not extend below the wide end. Ascots are fun but can look a little costume-y and not appropriate for the workplace.


(The Four-in-Hand and Half-Windsor)


(The Windsor Knott and The Shelby Knott)


Shoes
The shoes you wear with a shoot should always be smart; Oxford, Derbies and slip-ons are fine. The slip-on is a modern and informal shoe that is very common these days. Black shoes are always smart for business attire. Lighter browns are fine for less formal and summer attire.


(Oxford, Derby and Slip-ons)


Up Next: Dress shirts!